M4LFUNCT10N
05-23-2006, 02:42 PM
sdb300zx pointed me here. Anyway, the first thing I looked at were the Writeup's listed here. Immediately I saw flaws, or at least things that appear incorrect or suggest procedures that are unnecessary. So, my question is how are the Writeups "voted" or tested?
First thing I noticed, was the procedure for the antenna mod. It suggests bridging the two antenna's, which immediately screw the reception up. The proper method, is to disconnect the antenna power signal from the head unit, then unplug the mast antenna's main wire from the 2 pronged antenna adapter, and finally, rotate the 2 pronged antenna connector 180*, so that when plugged in, the two prongs are switched. No splicing of wires, etc. The aftermarket radio will no leave the stock antenna down(or you could shave it), and it will use the hatch glass antenna.
Second issue, was the writeup for the E-fan constant on. For one, there is no specification as to which wire to tap into on the Rad Fan Relay. First thing that comes to mind, this relay supplies power to the AC fan, which only turns on when the AC is on, or when the temperature gets too hot(it acts as an accessory fan for cooling). So depending on the wire used, you may not get the constant on that you intended. A much easier way is to tap into the "Engine Control" 10A fuse in the same location. This fuse has a signal whenever the key is in the ON position.
Anyway, I don't want to sound like I'm coming here to bash, I just found it odd that the first 2 writeups I read, seemed to have some big issues. I haven't even looked at the rest.
Logan
First thing I noticed, was the procedure for the antenna mod. It suggests bridging the two antenna's, which immediately screw the reception up. The proper method, is to disconnect the antenna power signal from the head unit, then unplug the mast antenna's main wire from the 2 pronged antenna adapter, and finally, rotate the 2 pronged antenna connector 180*, so that when plugged in, the two prongs are switched. No splicing of wires, etc. The aftermarket radio will no leave the stock antenna down(or you could shave it), and it will use the hatch glass antenna.
Second issue, was the writeup for the E-fan constant on. For one, there is no specification as to which wire to tap into on the Rad Fan Relay. First thing that comes to mind, this relay supplies power to the AC fan, which only turns on when the AC is on, or when the temperature gets too hot(it acts as an accessory fan for cooling). So depending on the wire used, you may not get the constant on that you intended. A much easier way is to tap into the "Engine Control" 10A fuse in the same location. This fuse has a signal whenever the key is in the ON position.
Anyway, I don't want to sound like I'm coming here to bash, I just found it odd that the first 2 writeups I read, seemed to have some big issues. I haven't even looked at the rest.
Logan